Marko: The new kid at South Melbourne Market

Unlike many vegan restaurants in Melbourne, South Melbourne Market’s newest trader Marko doesn’t try to recreate the experience of meat. Instead, owner Dehne Bingham wanted to showcase vegetables for “the little heroes they are”. “Our philosophy is to take vegetables, make them delicious, eat them,” Mr Bingham said. “It’s almost minimal intervention in the food,” Mr Bingham said. Having opened in April this year, Marko boasts a menu of simple vegan dishes that are created solely using ingredients from the market. From green-pea falafel pita pockets with quinoa tabouli, to cheeseburgers, to corn ribs topped with crisp chilli – all the ingredients are fresh, seasonal, and local. Mr Bingham said the menu took a “whole food approach” and took inspiration from some of the most comforting dishes around the world. “In some respects, Marko is what I would like to eat if I was plant-based,” he said. “I can’t just eat a salad and I’m not into the fake meat stuff, so I looked at cuisines around the world and there’s so many dishes where you don’t miss the meat.” “In Tel Aviv the falafel pita is one of the most lovely, indulgent things you can eat and it’s all plants.” Mr Bingham has had the idea for Marko on his mind for the past 15 years, but decided to make the move mid last year. And as the former CEO of Belles Hot Chicken, former head of supply chain at Grill’d and former director of purchasing and distribution at A&W, he has plenty of experience in the hospitality business. “I noticed that plant-based eating was really kicking off and one of my favourite authors Michael Pollan, who is famous for food industry critiques, was really advocating for it,” Mr Bingham said. “The number one restaurant, Eleven Madison Park, has also gone plant-based this year after the owner had an epiphany in lockdown about climate and wanted to show leadership.” “So, I felt like during the lockdown, when things seemed darkest, that it was the right time to go and do something.” So far, the restaurant has adapted to the lockdowns by creating a pop-up stand and a restaurant-quality Marko at Home take-home pack. The pop-up stand has a hand-written menu which changes throughout the week, including items like mushroom shawarma skewers and pumpkin roasted with tahini and pomegranate salsa. “Last weekend we just put some coal cook tops out the front which was really well-received,” Mr Bingham said. “People can come past and eat the food, which is all picked fresh from the market, and have a chat over the coals.” When asked about the idea behind the name, Mr Bingham said that it was inspired by his roots in regional Victoria. “Marko is a shortening of Markovich Lane, which is the street I grew up in,” he said. “I was thinking of a Yugoslavian couple who lived there, and how they lived off the land with their vegie patch, chickens and goats.” “So, the inspiration for the simplicity, seasonality and local ingredients comes from where I grew up.” Visit Marko at 116 Cecil St, South Melbourne Market • For more information: eatmarko.com.au